Showing posts with label couture. Show all posts
Showing posts with label couture. Show all posts

Sunday, 24 March 2013

dior at harrods

It's been a while since I've done anything fashiony (the last being Valentino's exhibition at Somerset House), so Dior's exhibition at Harrods was a timely move for me before I had to head home for the holidays.

I only had time to visit the pop-up exhibition on the 4th floor. Walking through the ridiculously priced children's clothes section to get to the exhibition was definitely daunting, like the £600 price tag on a tiny Dolce & Gabanna dress for a 2-year-old baby girl.


The 'So Dior' exhibition is funnily enough located next to the Disney Cafe - I suppose there isn't space available elsewhere. Nevertheless, once you walk into the space, fronted by an extraordinary, lit-up facade of a quintessentially French building with actual tiled floors, miniature furniture and perfume bottles behind the windows, you know you're in for a treat.


It's not a huge exhibition by all means, but quite a lot is packed into the compact space. I especially enjoyed the video clip with footage of the master couturier himself speaking of his designs and the gorgeous gowns on display. Despite the small collection, the dresses are all stunning, especially that iconic dress from Raf Simons' spring Couture collection, which is an absolute marvel to see in person. The tiny, tiny blooms that make up the fabric of the dress are tear-inducingly beautiful. Definitely linger and press your face up against the glass, it is the stuff dreams are made of.






I'm not the biggest fan, but there is a fair amount of space dedicated to the Lady Dior handbag, from some interesting reconstructions to a giant bag-sized screen which takes you through the making of iconic handbag named after Princess Diana.

























All photos are my property.

Monday, 9 July 2012

valentino, qatar and couture fall 2012

The first thing that I saw this morning when leaving the Liverpool Street tube station on the way to work was the newsflash that Valentino is in talks with the Qatari royal family for the latter to acquire the Valentino Fashion Group from private equity firm Primera.

Of course, we all remember the drama that accompanied the change in ownership in 2007, with Alessandra Fachinetti being sacked after 2 seasons despite an admirable effort to bring some youth to the maison.

Hopefully if the deal follows through, there will be much less turbulence at the creative helm, jointly held by former accessories designers, Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri. With Valentino's stamp of approval, the brand's return to profits this year and a critically successful fall 2012 couture show, they are more than likely to stay put.


Thursday, 5 July 2012

couture fall 2012 review: elie saab

Elie Saab isn't the most talented designer, but he does make the most heartwrenchingly beautiful dresses. The Elie Saab brand is stranded on the most elegant of inertias- we've all seen the dresses before, floor-length, simple shapes, an exceptional eye for embellishment. As long as the designer keeps on churning out these gorgeous dresses, and his clients keep buying them, the chances are he won't be pushing the envelope to propel himself to fashion greatness.

But when mediocrity is this beautiful, does it matter?


Source: www.style.com

couture fall 2012 review: Christian Dior

Raf Simons is an interesting appointment to Dior. Simons' sharp sartorial architecture for Jil Sander is more than well-known, though I'm not personally a huge fan. From the brilliant, over-the-top Galliano to the rather understated Simons is, I think, a brave move on the part of Dior.

To be honest, I didn't expect to like this collection. How could anyone replace Galliano, who has produced some of the greatest couture pieces in history?

Well, Simons wouldn't. He doesn't intend to either. The first look, a sleek black pant suit, could easily slot into a Jil Sander runway show. I guess it was a clear statement that he'd be doing Dior his way. The Dior references were indeed present. There was the occasional dip into floral and bright hues, but only paired with tuxedo pants and simple silhouettes. The New Look was revived in the most amazing white organza strapless dress, 'embroidered with Pontillists degrade chiffon', a surprisingly refreshing look.

But the ultimate homage to the house of Dior was the insanely beautiful set made up of a million flowers. Cue a million sighs.





Tuesday, 3 July 2012

couture fall 2012 review: Versace

Real life has been busy- just started interning with the marketing department at a law firm yesterday, which I think is an excellent excuse for being late on the Paris Couture Week, Fall 2012.

Let's start with Versace. I'm a big fan of the maison- Donatella knows how to design for the sexy, confident woman.

The up-to-there slits, bold prints and colours are all Versace signatures, and some dresses suggested more RTW than CTW to me. But the refinement of the beading, draping and corsetry of others certainly speaks the language of fine couture. I especially love that the thigh-high slits on evening gowns were made more subtle and feminine by clouds of opaque fabric. I would have liked to see more of the sharp and glamorous tailoring like the opening look, a beige suit jacket threaded in gold and clinched by a femme fatale belt.



The couture collection shared the limelight with the Atelier Versace Jewellery collection on the runway. The jewellery line comprises 16 hand-sculpted rings mounted with a range of precious stones, and Donatella has sparkling big plans for the future- the chief executive of Versace has announced the brand's intention to launch standalone stores for the Atelier Versace Jewellery.

My only critique? The shoes. The straps are awkward and would look extremely unflattering on normal-sized calves. But I'll choose to turn a blind eye to them.

Image source: www.style.com

Tuesday, 19 June 2012

tribute: dior couture f/w 2007 (60th anniversary)

It will become increasingly clear in these tributes that I am hugely biased when it comes to haute couture, but it's not my fault that the master couturiers are so damned good at what they do.

I prefer Spring/Summer couture collections to Winter/Fall as colours of the latter are almost always too subdue for my taste. But not in the Dior show, which celebrated the maison's 60th anniversary. It was another gorgeous show, though I still think the S/S 2007 show remains the best couture collection to date.

Commentary is really unnecessary.


Source: www.style.com

Wednesday, 13 June 2012

couture tribute: spring/summer 2007

I don't remember why 2007 is such a big year in my head... but I highly suspect it is because of the Spring/Summer  2007 Couture season. This was before the big financial crisis hit and the big guns put on show the most theatrical works with minimal regard for economic viability.

Of course much has changed since 2007. John Galliano is no longer with Christian Dior and Christian Lacroix filed for bankruptcy and staged his (possibly) last couture show in 2009. My love for Gaultier fluctuates, but I think he was on the top of his game in this season.

To me, these 3 shows are the epitome of the beauty, extravagance and flamboyance of haute couture. Enjoy.


Christian Dior
I remember the stir this particular collection caused in the fashion press. It is orgasmic. The Japanese references cannot be lost on anyone- the incredible construction of the origami dress, the fuschia suit and the exaggerated peplum of orange bloom. Galliano's skills as a couturier and his eye for colour are unparalleled- shame about the drunken antisemetic outburst.


Christian Lacroix
Spring. That's all I think of when I see this collection. It's not the most original theme, obviously, but Lacroix has the ultimate green fingers (what a clever pun). To this day, a Lacroix SS2007 CTW dress remains my dream wedding dress. I will take any of the above, though I am leaning towards the peach number that falls in the most delicate cascades of ruffles.


Jean Paul Gaultier
This is probably my favourite collection in terms of originality. Who else better than the enfant terrible to bring the Bible into fashion? The headpieces are stunning, obviously inspired by halos crowning the Virgin Mary in medieval religious paintings, and panels of these paintings feature in a couple of the dresses. The blues and the beige/browns really do it for me, especially the medieval-shaped dress on the bottom right and the sweeping blue gown with gold threading radiating from the divine (biblical) Madonna's heart.

Source: Style.com

paris couture week autumn/winter 2012/13

Continuing with the Paris theme (third time today), Mode à Paris has released the schedule for Paris Couture Week! Extremely psyched. Highlights for me:

1 July
Versace

2 July
Christian Dior
Giambattista Valli

3 July
Chanel
Georgio Armani Prive
Givenchy

4 July
Elie Saab
Jean Paul Gaultier
Valentino

Counting down... 18 days.

In anticipation of Paris Couture Week, I think it's fitting to do a series of tributes to past Couture weeks... starting with the legendary Spring/Summer Season 2007 (dun dun dun).